Sunday, December 27, 2009

A week of music making with Tshering Dorji!


A week of music making with wonderful Bhutanese guitarist/singer/songwriter Tshering Dorji culminated this weekend with a concert here in Thimphu, and an appearance together on Bhutan's national TV (BBS) entertainment program "Spotlight".

I actually met Tshering on my very first night here in Bhutan. That night, my school administrator, Rinchen, and fellow music teacher Masayuki took me to my first dinner in Bhutan to a restaurant in town called "Hotel Tandin" where I was introduced not only to Tshering but two other important companions for my life here in Thimphu (Sherab and Lama Shenphen Zangpo). That night I learned about the activities at Deer Park Thimphu: A Centre for Art and Contemplation and this buddhist learning and community center has not only been a great source of learning and discovery for me in terms of buddhism but it has also provided a community of friends, both Bhutanese and international.

The following tuesday, I went to meditation class, and there I was approached by Tshering who said that he also "plays a little bit of guitar" and was wondering whether i'd like to jam sometime. I must admit I hesitantly gave him my number. Perhaps all the years in the US, being approached from time to time by musicians who wanted to jam, and having to develop a little bit of a guarded attitude to protect my time...that in itself is a topic for a whole different conversation.*** And yet I thought to myself why not? Really, why not? Why not say yes. Anyway, not much time passed and we decided to get together, and when I heard his music, I was thrilled that I had said yes. Tshering's songs have beautiful melodies, an integrity of structure and harmony that characterizes only the best of songs, and he himself is a sensitive and wonderfully skilled guitarist and singer. Only later did I find out, that Tshering is one of the most well respected contemporary musicians in Bhutan, admired by many, including up and coming musicians (though he's only 27) and his debut album "Kolors" was immensely successful here.

So we began to work on his songs. And what a joy it has been. I think what we discovered is that the collaboration with our particular instrumentation and the background and particular style of playing that I bring gave his songs a different direction, not necessarily better than the original, but different and fresh.

Our first opportunity to perform together in public was one of the most memorable performances of my life. Towards the end of November, as three extraordinary days of teaching by a remarkable buddhist master, Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche, came to a close, we were asked by Deer Park to present a musical offering of thanks to Rinpoche on behalf of the Deer Park community. So there we were performing a traditional Bhutanese song that Tshering had arranged in front of hundreds of Bhutanese who had come to attend the teaching and in front of Rinpoche himself. It was a privilege, an honor, and most of all a truly moving experience. Personally, I had been so moved by the three days and by the presence and energy of this master teacher and so coming to it, I was already quite charged emotionally. The feeling in the room, the listening going on, had a quality to it that was different from any other kind of listening and feeling that I had experienced previously as a performer. It's like the music had more meaning to the listeners than I have previously experienced. Or put another way, it was about much more than the music. Music was a vehicle to express gratitude. And as a performer I could feel the intensity of the moment, not only because of the audience, but because I was also saying a deep heartfelt thanks to Rinpoche through the music, and speaking not just for myself but for everyone else in the room. The feedback that we received in the following days and weeks (i've often been approached by people I don't know who were there and recognized me) indicated that my impressions were shared by others, and that indeed countless people had been moved by the experience, and by such a unique type of offering.

Yesterday we performed together at the Centennial Music Concert Series. This is a concert series organized by the radio station and my show on it, and i'm helping them organize the first concert series in Bhutan!!! This month's performance was the third installment. And though the turnout was a little bit smaller than I had anticipated, we had a great time sharing our music with the listeners, who were very appreciative.

Earlier this week, ahead of our performance together at Centennial, I had Tshering on "Deep Listening" my weekly radio show, as my hour long feature guest. We discussed and listened to his music, talked about his creative process, his life and the nature of Bhutan's music industry and conditions for artists and musicians here. We had so much fun together and I believe it made for some good radio!

Today, Tshering Dorji and I were featured on "Spotlight" the music program on Bhutan Broadcast Service (National TV). We performed four songs and were interviewed, and the show will be broadcasted in a few weeks. We had a great time together, were very pleased with how it went and the very popular host, Namgay Zam, did a fantastic job with the program.

Realizing that our collaboration is a kind of "first" in the music world of Bhutan it's exciting to know that the program and our music will be aired all over the country, and it's very possible that even in very remote villages, in areas that I will probably never get to visit, people might watch and enjoy our music. That is gratifying.

Looking forward to more playing with Tshering, both publicly and informally, in the very near future!!!

Noam


***Small footnote then: one of the problems that I felt as an artist in the US, was the constant worry about money, making ends meet, which in turn then leads to a fierce need to protect my time...after all i'm already spending much of my time on activities that are not my highest priority and yet must be done in order to make a living, and therefore there appears to be less room for generosity, and also things often end up calculated in terms of financial return. After all one needs to pay rent. Well, here in Bhutan, making a salary that is extremely modest by US standards, and yet having no financial worries at all, I suddenly find myself able to do all sorts of things without worrying about money. When people ask for music lessons, but cannot afford to pay, if I have the time to do it, I give lessons. I have volunteered my time as a radio show host, and for my performances at Centennial Radio, because I know that they need the funds to help support their station, and really since i'm ok financially, and love music and playing music, getting paid doesn't matter as much. When I don't have to worry about money, I find that I have much more room to give and not want anything in return. Something to ponder I guess about the way our society back in the West is structured, and what financial problems do to peoples' attitudes and to their hearts.

The People's King!

His majesty, the King of Bhutan was in India a few days ago, and he delivered the following speech available in full on Kuensel online (the national daily).

From everything i've been able to gather, these are not just empty words, he lives these words in his actions and his leadership here in Bhutan. This is the reason the people of Bhutan call him "The Peoples' King" and this is why he is loved and cherished by so many across this nation.

Enjoy,
Noam

Friday, December 18, 2009

Our annual concert front page on Kuensel!


It's been too long since i've updated you all on happenings here. Partly because it's been such a busy month as our semester was coming to a close, and partly because I was hampered by a variety of ailments (root canal, strep throat and a nasty flu). But, it's also been a wonderfully rich month...and I plan to share all of it with you very soon.

In the meantime, the daily national newspaper of Bhutan "Kuensel" had a photo from our annual concert on their front page. And here is the photo for your pleasure:


Happy Holidays!
Noam

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Bumthang Journey in Photos!


Just back from a fantastic five day excursion to Bumthang, a district located approximately 10 hours east of Thimphu. I had the great joy of experiencing the breathtaking beauty of this remarkable country, sharing in the fantastic spirit of its people, and relishing one of Bumthang's Tsechu's (festival) and many sacred sites. For those that want to read more you will find a detailed report below the photos.

Our bus driver loading up the luggage on the top of the bus!

Here are some of the packages that we dropped off along the way which I was telling you about.

The 108 chorten monastery at Dochu La Pass, about 45 minutes from Thimphu. The 108 chortens were built in 2005 as atonement for the loss of life caused by the "flushing out" of Assamese militants in southern Bhutan.

The view from Dochu La Pass



Really on our way now...

Shot from a crack inside the toilet shack near where we stopped for breakfast...

Wangdi Dzong


With Youmi!

More views from the journey to Jakar...






The kind of sign you see all over Bhutan, this one in a very small village which we stopped at to drop off a package.

An image from village life...

Already in Jakar now, my friend Kinga walking up towards the Dzong, having to put his kabne on in order to get into Jakar Dzong. Bhutanese have to wear traditional dress when entering Dzongs, whereas foreignors can wear western clothes.

The view from Jakar Dzong: this is the valley where the town of Jakar lies. As I mentioned, it's landscape appears significantly more tame then any other part of Bhutan i've seen thus far. But it is merely an illusion, as any 30 minute walk up a mountain will reveal new impressive mountain ranges.

Inside Jakar Dzong.






At the Kurje Monastic Complex

I bought my first souvenir in Bhutan right outside the Kurje Monastic Complex (one of the most sacred sites in Bhutan). A singing bowl with the mantra om mani peme hung engraved onto it in dzongkha. This is the lady I bought it from, and here she is demonstrating the beauty of its sound.

The entire Bumthang group! what a fantastic group of people! From left to right. Top: me, Kathrin (Germany), Pia (Sweden). Bottom: Kunzang (Bhutan), Kinga (Bhutan), Line (Denmark), Anne (Denmark), Youmi (S. Korea), Fumie (Japan).

At the tsechu. Tired baby...babies are often strapped to their mothers' (sometimes fathers') backs, as you can see. Sometimes their heads dangle in funny ways!

Tsechu (festival) grounds. Food stalls.


Saddening to see that toy guns have made it even to the non-violent Kingdom of Bhutan. I think they were being sold at various booths in the adjacent fair to the festival, and were a big hit with the young boys. Sigh.

We were sitting right next to the Cymbal man who was accompanying the masked dances with his rhythmic punctuations. From where we were sitting, the cymbals' sounds were almost deafening, but, if you let your ears get beyond the higher pitched loud and repeated tones that came with every strike, a beautiful low fundamental note emerged.




The view of the calm and peaceful Jakar valley.

Now, on our way to Ura!

There it is! The tallest mountain in Bhutan, Gangkhar Puensum, at 7,541 meters (24,596 feet).

The village of Ura from a distance.

The temple in Ura village.


This is the devoted elderly woman, who was circamumbulating all alone, in the cold windy afternoon.

A painting on the outside walls of the temple.

Another shot of the village of Ura.

With Anne, on the way back to Jakar. In the background is Gangkhar Puensum again, but because it's so white with snow, you cannot see it.



Before reaching Jakar, we stopped at a holy lake, decorated with hundreds and hundreds of prayer flags.


Now, on our one day trek up to Penseling Goempa (a monastery on the top of a mountain in Jakar). We ran into these three ladies who were coming down towards town, right as we were beginning our hike up.

The view between two large prayer flags.

We saw several such structures all the way up, whenever there was a stream of water.

The view of Jakar, and Jakar Dzong perched up on the hill straight away.

Views from our hike.


As we were finally getting close to the Monastery, there it is.

The view from the Monastery in one direction.

Top of the world?
Young monk wondering what my friend Pia is up to...

The toilet...I'll spare you the picture I shot of the inside...

Outside the monastery itself, young monks taking a short lunch break from the puja, amongst the chortens and prayer flags.

These are the young monks who were our fantastic hosts.

On the way back down, about half way, we ran into these same three women, who were now making their way back up to their village which was up top the mountain, having sold the goods they brought down, and purchased goods from the market in town.

On our way back to Thimphu, the mountains between Jakar and Trongsa.

Another impressive mountain. Not sure which...
Between Wangdi and Lobesa...

About an hour before reaching Thimphu, as we were climbing up towards Dochu La pass, a loud explosion, and a flat tire!

The view from the spot where we got the flat...



Much love,
Noam