Stream of consciousness follows:
I am here, and this place is breathtakingly beautiful. I had a very long, and exhausting journey, but got to spend a day in Bangkok which was very interesting and unlike anything i'd ever seen. Well, Bhutan, is also unlike anything i've ever seen. My journey was relatively smooth and I was lucky to be treated with great generosity by the airline companies, and didn't have to pay any money for the excess luggage. The drive from Paro (the airport) to Thimpu was absolutely amazing, tall, luscious mountains, with misty clouds hovering all around them, gushing rivers, and narrow windy roads, driving on the left side, cars seem to be coming straight at you only to move away at the last second...no rails, deep gorges, and fresh, fresh air.
In Thimpu, I arrived at my apartment, which is modest, but nice, with breathtaking views, and oh so kind neighbors. I am still very much learning my way, and I had a few days to get adjusted before I began to work at the school. In the first few days I had two waves of intense home-sickness and the kind of question: "what the hell am I doing here?" arose . I am trying to sit with these feelings and remind myself why I chose to come here, and know that they will pass. In the days since, things have stabilized quite a bit, but I am still going through all sorts of ups and downs as I get used to life here.
There are dogs roaming all over town. Some strays and some non-strays. When we drove towards my apartment on the first day, the first thing Rinchen (the school administrator) and Masayuki (the Japanese music teacher at the school) said when we were getting close, was that this is a neighborhood that has so many dogs and dangerous dogs for that matter. That was pretty much the last thing I wanted to hear as I was already a bit apprehensive about the dog situation.
Interestingly enough my neighbors all confirmed the dog reports. If my neighbors, who one would imagine are used to dogs and know the area well, suggest not to walk through a certain part of the neighborhood, I intend to listen carefully. Thankfully, they showed me a safe shortcut towards town that avoids the part of the neighborhood where the “big, dangerous” dogs reside.
Dogs aside, Thimpu is very safe. As long as you watch where you walk on the uneven pavement/rocks and watch for cars.
Walking in the streets of Thimpu, is quite a feast for the eyes. Most people are dressed in their traditional clothes. Men wear a gho, a long robe, hoisted to knee length, and the women wear a long floor length dress called a kira. These ghos and kiras come in many different colors and designs and so the streets are filled with color and yet a kind of uniformity.
My apartment is located just above the Memorial Chorten which was built in honor of the 3rd king of Bhutan after his death by his wife in 1974. From the lonely planet guide: “a chorten is literally a receptacle for offerings, and in Bhutan all chortens contain religious relics”. Last week there was a Big Puja (religious service) happening at the Chorten. And the most important religious leader of Bhutan the Ja Khempo was here to lead the event. The event lasted an entire week and people from all around Thimpu came, some for a few hours, some for a day, some for the entire week. Sonam, one of my neighbors took me inside the gates of the Chorten, where everybody is allowed and gave me a tour of the Chorten. Right as we entered up in front of us is the Chorten with it’s golden upward spiral (stupa). On the left one could see big prayer wheels, with many women and men sitting around them, turning the wheels. The faithful were circumambulating and Sonam naturally led me to join the crowd. As we circled around the Chorten, walking to the left, in clockwise motion, everyone around me was reciting mantras. They were all reciting the same mantra (although in quite personal ways). The mantra was recited for the well-being of the nation. OM AH HUM BAAZA GURU PADMA SIDHI HUNG
Every morning last week while the Puja was happening I heard singing and trumpets playing quite beautiful dronal music, which along with the pounding from upstairs created a great collage of sound. I learned today what this pounding that I’ve been hearing is for. It’s for weaving. Chimmi showed me their weaving work upstairs. Dechen is working in one of the apartments on a Gho and Sonam is working on a Kira for Pema’s wife.
I hope to have internet at home soon, so I’ll be able to post entries more frequently.
For now,
Noam
Inside the Memorial Chorten Grounds
During Puja
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